Archive: ‘Travel’



The last of the headhunters

Tuesday, January 31st, 2012

It may come as some surprise to you that these guys really do exist.

Just some 50 odd years ago warriors were beheading their enemies in tribal warfare, their tattooed faces signify those who have taken a head and are displays of the warriors skill and bravery. In the tribal regions of North Eastern India a hand full of these warriors still exist, now old men, there faces show the signs of a hard fought life. The tattoos may have faded but these are still very proud men who are well respected within the community.

Still living very simple lives these warriors are aging fast, in a country where the life expectancy is around 65 years they surely wont be around for much longer. While many may see that killing and beheading an enemy to be an extremely violent and horrific act, they were almost always carried out as acts of revenge for a previous killing of one of their own tribesmen. It certain makes me think about how this form of capital punishment compares to that which continues today in many countries.

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That was post number 31 of 366, come back tomorrow for more.

Trains & travel

Thursday, January 26th, 2012

Another train ride, it seems they never end and I´ve still got at least 3 more long ones before I return back to the UK in February. Although I wont be leaving India for another 3 weeks it very much feels like this trip is winding down for me, perhaps as I have no other specific photography stories to cover, or perhaps I´ve just been away for long enough and am missing a few home comforts. Either way I´m looking forward to it.

Over the last couple of days things on the blog slipped up a little with various post not going live, hopefully that´s all fixed now and posting will continue as before with a new post everyday. I´m actually working on something quite cool for tomorrow´s post so come back and check it out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That was day 26 of 366, come back tomorrow for more

 

Gokarts

Monday, January 23rd, 2012

One of the things that always amazes me the most about traveling in rural Asia, and I assume it´s the same in other parts of of the world, is how the children make their own toys out of anything that is available the classic that can be found across the globe is an old tyre and a stick to push it along.

My favorite however has to be these go karts that I discovered in North Eastern India, a very simple design made from a few lengths of bamboo, a couple of nails and what ever is available for the wheels, often more wood. I was fascinated by the simplicity of the design, these things had steering and breaks, although judging from the speeds that these things wizz around on, the latter didn’t seemed to be used all that much.

That was day 23 of 366, come back tomorrow for more

A day from my diary

Sunday, January 22nd, 2012

Wake up later than planned at 5:45, have a mad panic to finish packing and get to the 4×4 stand by 6, were we plan to travel the 2 hour journey to a small traditional village. We run down the stairs only to find that the front gate is padlocked and we can´t leave. Have a mad search to find a member of staff to unlock the gate but there is no one else in the guesthouse, we are alone and locked inside. We have no choice but to sit and wait. At 6:05 the housemaid arrives and unlocks the door and we run as best we can, sliding all over the place on the slippy roads, to get to the 4×4 stand in the hope it had been delayed. We arrive but there is no sign of life, we must have missed it. We head to the market where people are hanging around as the stalls are beginning to set up. We ask several different people about our options and get several different answers, any one who has been to India will know that the best thing to do in a situation like this is to have a chai, or 2.

It turns out that the 4×4 hasn’t actually left yet and wont be leaving until 7:30 – great. We wait for an hour until the vehicle arrives, and then wait another 2 hours and it actually leaves, we´re on our way. We travel almost entirely uphill for 2 hours passing stunning bamboo hut villages, women collecting wood and men out hunting with what appears to be some kind of double barrelled musket and a catapult. When we finally arrive we unload our luggage and sit down on our bags to take in the views as the local children crowd around. a minute later a man pulls out and places next to us an a-frame sign post reading ´Tourist Registration Counter´, we find this amusing as there is no counter to speak of, seconds later a girl appears with an A4 notebook we sign in, still surrounded by kids. We find and check in to the government tourist lodge that is to be our accommodation for the next few days, the building is basic to say the least. There is no running water, no electricity and several of the windows are smashed, wandering how long we can live like this. It´s pretty cold here too, at least we have a handful of blankets to keep us warm. Obviously we are the only guests staying here and upon signing in we notice that we are only the 11th guests to stay here since June 2010.

Having skipped breakfast we´re starting to get mighty hungry, we wander off with our cameras in search of a restaurant or chai stall to get something to eat, we soon discover that no such place exists here in this village and feel lucky when we discover a shop that sells rice, sweets and Parle G, a rather bland but extremely cheap Indian biscuit, we get a jumbo pack each. On our way back we walk passed a group of kids one of whom is hold a large dead mouse in each hand, we started talking to the kids and shot a few frames, but the boy seemed nervous and we moved on.

On returning to our lodge, that word sounds far too grand for what this place really is, we discover that we are welcome to eat with our neighbours a local family who live in a large bamboo hut and cook everything on an open fire in the middle of the hut. The sun sets early and upon entering our neighbours home we notice buffalo, deer and pig skulls hanging on the walls along with carvings and statues of tribesmen and various other traditional artifacts, all lit by the soft light of the glowing embers that boils a massive pot of rice.

At this moment our concerns about the accomadation disappear, we sit in the dark around the fire to keep warm and enjoy our first meal of the day. Our communication with the family is limited as they speak no English, but it´s obvious that this is going to be one heck of a journey.

That was day 24 of 366, come back tomorrow for more

Bad weather puts a hold on proceedings

Friday, January 20th, 2012

Just to show things don´t always go to plan and it helps to have a flexible attitude to this line of work. l think this image pretty much sums up the weather situation here today, super foggy, cold, grey and raining – still I suppose it´s good practice for when I get back to the UK :)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That was day 20 of 366, come back tomorrow for more

Journey to Nagaland

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

The events in this post actually happened some days ago but the Internet here in North East India is so scarce that it offers a refreshing outlook on the way we, or should I say I, lead my life – obviously it’s a bit of a downer when trying to write 366 blog posts in 366 days but there you have it, can’t win them all.

So I’m currently traveling to some of the least visited regions of India, where I hope to meet and spend some quality time with some of the tribes who, up until about 50 years ago, were literally hunting and beheading those from rival tribes. The scenery here is truly breathtaking and there is little in the way of concrete or brick structures, meaning the roads, those that are open, are more dirt tracks and transportation is slow and via 4×4 if you’re lucky.

The weather is so much colder than in South India with mist and clouds covering the surrounding hills that should make for some excellent photography, too say I’m looking forward to this journey is an understatement, I’ve wanted to come to these areas for sometime now and to almost be there is a real thrill. ‘m going to try to get some more posts up regarding this trip so you can enjoy the trip too, in the meantime here’s an image of those hills I was talking about.

 

That was day 18 of 366, come back tomorrow  for more

Personal Experiences. Burma 2008

Sunday, January 15th, 2012

So it´s like this,  while I was planning this post a day concept I realised I´d need content. I started with the week long series of posts (the first of which, the composition series, was a real success). I´m also going to be adding more mobile image, as I did earlier this week. Racking my brains for more I thought perhaps you would be interested to hear some of my past experiences, so every month I´ll be writing a reasonably in depth report on some of the great experiences that photography has given me. Firstly lets wind all the way back to February 2008 when I was traveling through Burma. I apolagise to those who have heard this story before.

I´ve always been interested in visiting far flung places and for some reason Burma appealed, I did plenty of research before I left and had things more or less planned out before I set off on my own. I was aware of the government situation and therefore and I only traveled by private bus and stayed in private (ie non-government hotels) in an attempt to reduce the amount of money getting into the hands of the military government.

During my time there I met incredible local people who, despite being impoverished, would stop me in the street and invite me to a restaurant for food and then refuse to let me pay even my half of the bill, extremely generous – this seems to be a running theme in my travels the less the people have the more generous they are.

A couple of weeks into the trip whilst in Mandlay, which is towards the noth of the country, a massive cyclone hit southern Burma. I knew nothing about it, power cuts were common so the fact that the telephones and internet were also out came as no real surprise. A couple of days later I hear of the ´big storm´ that had taken down the telephone cables in the capital and it could be a week before its up and running again.

News slowly started coming out as to how serious things really were, following the BBC world service as many Burmese do to hear acurate news instead of the cencored the stuff the get fed from the government, I learnt about the true horrors, hundreds dead and the number kept increasing every broadcast,thousands dead, tens of thousands, possibly a hundred thousand people dead, when were the numbers going to stop ?

According to Wikipedia the official number is 138, 000 people (although this is disputed and was probably higher), one of the most deadliest cyclones of all time. Obvioiusly In the outside world this was big news, Cyclone Nargis as it had been named had hit hard, however the military government tried thier hardest to put their spin on things making things sound less dramatic than it really was and stating how they were doing a good job and didn´t need any outside assistance. The truth is they weren´t, far from it.

Fortunatly for me I was far away continuing my adventure, however my family back home were getting incresing concerned the BBC, Sky and ITV all ran features on the missing British photographer, I have a copy of these broadcasts and they are chilling to watch. I was assumed dead, one of the 138 000. There was nothing they could do but watch the news coverage, see the numbers going up and up and watching the same images of dead bodies floating down rivers all bloated up in the heat of the day. I can´t imagine how they must have felt. Finally a week after the cyclone hit I was able to make contact. With the military roaming around in full force and the borders closed to foreigners I left the country pretty soon after.

I was welcomed back at Heathrow airport by my entire family, the press wanted to be there but I managed to give them the slip.

For me the sadest thing is when I returned to the UK and tried to publish these images no one was interested, despite attempts by one of the largest news agencies to get these images out into the public eye, over a week had passed and it was no longer considered news, I kept hearing the same response, no one really cares about what happens in Burma, so to this day none of these images have been published outside of my website. A sadening fact is that more people died from cyclone Nargis than did in the 2001 tsunami.

That was post number 15 of 366, come back tomorrow for more, I promise I´ll have something a little happier to share.

 

What´s in a travel photographers backpack?

Tuesday, January 10th, 2012

Travel photographers face a rather unique phenomenon that probably doesn’t occur to anyone else in the world, well it probably does…but….. It goes something like this. What ever and however they pack they will always always always wish they had packed more and yet on the same trip they will also wish they had packed less. Not being familiar with a destination or the events that may occur can lead to not bringing the right equipment for the job, you´ll want to make sure you have a full range of lenses and plenty of batteries for example.

On the other side of the coin. Weight. Many destinations of a travelling photographer do not suit modern roller trolleys and therefore the only alternative is to carry everything on your back, do you really need to bring that heavy telephoto lens? While my personal kit varies from trip to trip this is what I am currently carrying. I´m not going to go into real detail  about the specifications of each item rather list what I carry and state why.

5D MK II

I used to carry 2 Canon 1d MKII series cameras but the weight was just too much, why 2? for the simple reason that if one were to fail I´d have a backup, also I had a 1ds II with it´s stunning picture quality as my standard camera and a 1d II as the backup which gave me incredible speed when shooting (something like 8 frames per second) so at fast moving events I´d use that as my standard camera. On a few rare occasions I also carried both cameras with different lenses attaches which gave me a full variety of options. Now the 5 D MKII does every thing I want and more, yes it is true that I am with out a back up, but it´s a risk I´m taking in an attempt to save my back for a few more years.

Canon EF 24-70L f2.8

A great lens that helps me shoot almost 90% of my images. You´ll usually find me at 24mm but I have the option to zoom all the way to 70mm when required.

Canon EF 70-200 f2.8

This big white lens is built like a brick and weighs about as much too. for the last couple of years I haven´t been without as having that extra zoom has helped me out of difficult shooting situations. However I haven´t used it that much recently and I am now starting to wander if it deserves to have a permanent place in my kit bag.

2 x Canon Speedlights

Useful, natural light can be very unpredictable and often harsh near the equator. With 2 flashes I open up a huge range of lighting options. Add on some coloured gels and BAM.

Laptop

with various software – more on that another day. Essential for backing up, editing, processing, blog writing and so much more

5 x External HDDs

Earlier on this trip I had a bit of a nightmare situation and to be honest I am still not entirely happy with my current setup and should probably add another drive to my backpack but 6 HDD´s seems excessive to me. Currently my drives are organised as follows. 2 copies of my images and videos from my current trip, the other 3 drives have just one copy of older work. Don´t worry my older work is also backed up in 2 different locations.

Zoom H1 Sound recorder

I haven´t used it as much as I probably should have but this thing weighs about as much as a feather so I really don´t regret carrying it and on the occasions I have use it it has worked flawlessly giving me excellent sound quality.

USB card reader

I love this thing. It cost me just a couple of quid, weighs next to nothing, is small and needs no cables. What more could you want from a card reader.

Velbon Tripod

You can´t live without one if shooting video and allows me to shoot images with slow shutter speeds. Why Velbon? no idea. I´ve had it a long time and it does the job. On top of all this I have a mountain of various cables, flash gels, flash leads, cleaning kit, CDs, memory cards, batteries and other useful bits and bobs.

That was post number 10 of 366, check back tomorrow for more

56 Hours on a train

Monday, January 9th, 2012

Those who follow me on either Twitter or Facebook  may have read my update regarding a rather long train journey I completed just the other day, a rather long train journey from Mumbai in the West of India to Assam in the far far North East, the reasons for me being here will become apparent soon.

So what to do during the 56 hours? Apart from so much reading that my eyes started blur and drinking so much chai that I was almost crying dregs and then of course there was photography. For security reasons I was not wanting to unpack my DSLR (I felt safer with it hidden away under lock and key rather than waving it around in peoples faces), I chose the next best thing – my mobile. Below are a handful of shots I took during the 3 day venture.

 

  

 

That was day 9 of 366, come back tomorrow for more.

My interview a Malaysian national newspaper

Sunday, October 23rd, 2011

Another quick update.

Due to a couple of random meetings when I was on assignment earlier this year in Malaysia I ended up being interviewed by the Guang Ming Daily, a Malaysian national newspaper written in Chinese, the interview was conducted through an interpreter and lasted about an hour, I spoke about my life and my thoughts on both travel and photography and handed over a few images but I had absolutely no idea the printed article was going to be so long, It appears to be 3 full pages.

I’ve yet to see a printed copy but there should be one waiting for me in Penang. Now the truth is I’m really not 100% sure what the article says nor how accurate it is, but I’ve been assured it paints me in a positive light.